More than a college town

I awoke on the morning of July 18th feeling conflicted. It was my birthday, I was going to see a city I had been at before, but my family was thousands of miles away. I still had a job to do, though. I had put together this study abroad for my students and I was going to give them a fantastic experience. So I got my big boy pants on, got my cameras ready for the day, and came downstairs.

I was immediately reminded of Boston, but even older. The moment we crossed the Thames and entered into the central part of Oxford I made this first photograph. The locals claimed that the Paper Boat Cafe was the smallest cafe in the world. I'm not sure about the validity of that claim, but the tea was fantastic.

Something I had enjoyed doing in York and continued doing here was capturing frames in which someone or something was moving into or out of the frame. In this case, I released the shutter as the bicyclist entered my 28mm field of view. It painted such a serene image and is one of my favorites made in Oxford.

Bicycles played a big part of getting around in Oxford. I may have seen more bicycle than any other point of time in my life. I loved that this first exposure showed just that.

Small neoclassical building with arched windows and a blue door entrance on a quiet street.

Historic architecture of Oxford University buildings with the Sheldonian Theatre's domed roof visible.

Gothic stone church with large stained glass window and modern glass entrance extension.

Victorian Gothic memorial spire in a town square with historic buildings and cyclists.

As I moved through the city I found that it was as alive as I expected any college town to be. Young people coming and going to summer courses, to be sure. But also lots of other folks simply getting around. The photograph above, with the two women walking in opposite directions is one of my favorites here. Each of these women, including the one in the background seems to be of a different walk of life and going about their day for a different purpose. Oxford seemed to be filled with myriad little personal stories.

I imagined that this one of the gentleman riding his bicycle depicts a professor or grad-student getting to class. He was dressed much like how I do when I teach, not as casual or comfortably as the shorts and teeshirt wearing others, and was riding with purpose. It also happened to be in a college packed part of town. The University of Oxford is spread throughout the entire city of Oxford, but some places are more densely populated with school buildings than others.

Row of parked bicycles along historic Oxford street with classical architecture and pedestrians.

This spot here, however, this courtyard between three ancient buildings, was very likely my favorite view of the city. It looked exactly the way I always pictured old colleges and universities looking. As a proud of alumnus of Boston College (go Eagles!) I am no stranger to ancient campuses. But this was on a totally different level. This was old world.

This one photograph is one that I enjoy a lot. The balance and weight of background and subjects really works for. It also happened to be a gorgeous day. The light was not too harsh, so it helped with the photographs quite a bit.

It all came together in a way that didn't quite make me forget that I was without my family on my birthday, but certainly alleviated some of that sadness.

Historic architecture in Oxford city center with pedestrians crossing a cobblestone plaza.

This day ended up being one of my favorites on the trip. Oxford gave me a fresh and new experience and allowed me to feel at home by bringing me back into academia. The various halls, quads, libraries, and classrooms that we visited breathed fresh life into me...which was helpful because I was feeling a little older and more mortal than usual that day.

I was sad to leave it behind, but all good things must come to an end. I can't wait to get back to Oxford, though. And certainly one of the highlights was the Turf Tavern, where if you know...you know. But leaving was inevitable. And we found ourselves driving far west. So far west, in fact, that we spent the evening in Wales. I had visited Wales before, and this city as well, actually. We spent only the evening in Newport, where our hotel had a rooftop view that allowed us to see the setting sun over the horizon. I was a year older, probably not much wiser, and definitely looking forward to the next day in which we'd visit Bath.

Oxford University's Gothic buildings and spires visible beyond manicured garden beds.

Bath Time

Of all the places I love in England, and there are more than I care to admit, Bath is the one I love most. When I was 16, my grandparents took me on a grand tour of the British Isles. Many places left an impression, but none so much as Bath. So, my expectations were high when I was strolling into Bath. And wow did Bath not let me down.

We came into town and found that the University of Bath was holding their summer term graduation at Bath Abbey. The square in front of the Abbey was electric with energy. From the graduates to their brimming family and friends, the feeling was one of elation. It set such a tone for the entire day, which started at the Roman baths.

The baths were as impressive as I remembered them to be and the tour just as interesting. I quickly set about photographing as much of the history as I could to bring back for Link, who is an ardent student of Roman history and mythology.

Ancient Roman baths with green water surrounded by classical columns and stone architecture.

Bath Abbey's Gothic facade viewed through classical columns on a busy tourist street.

Historic Roman Baths in Bath featuring green thermal waters, grand columns and Gothic architecture against a blue sky.

Low angle view of neoclassical columns and architecture against a deep blue sky with lens flare.

The students enjoyed this possibly more than any other activity up until this point. While the focus of the study abroad had been literature, much of the focus had veered whenever necessary to history, art, architecture, culture, and beyond. And as Bath is bursting at the seams with all of the above, it was full of opportunities everywhere we went.

The iconic Royal Crescent in Bath, featuring Georgian architecture and a sweeping lawn under blue skies.

Very little impressed the group as much as Bath's famous Royal Crescent. As expected, on such a beautiful day its lawn was filled with people playing and picnicking. We spent some time here as well, enjoying ice cream from a vendor on the other side of the street, playing soccer - the footy for those reading back in England - and enjoying the day much like the locals were. Uncharacteristically, we did not receive free time for lunch, rather having lunch together. This was a nice change of pace and allowed us to spend quite a bit of time on our own before leaving.

It was at this time that I went directly to Abbey Deli. I had just had lunch, so I didn't gnosh on anything, but I did have some tea and procured a cookie for later. Why? Simple, I love Bridgerton! Much of Netflix's hit series is filmed in Bath and the Modiste's shop is actually Abbey Deli. I made sure to get a cute little tote bag for Steph and made my way around the square, where a saxophonist was playing passionately.

I drank my tea and waited for him to finish his set. And wouldn't you know it, but the man I sat down next to was also shooting with a Leica. He had a Q (possibly Q2 or Q3) around his neck and we struck up a conversation about the merits of German glass. We spoke for a while and then both, awkwardly, sat up at the same time and said goodbye before even more awkwardly walking to the saxophonist for a dip in the tip jar. But such is the way.

Charming street scene in Bath with bakery windows and historic stone buildings.

I was the last on the bus as I absolutely did not want to leave Bath. It is a city I feel utterly at home in. From the history and the art, to the people and the food. I love it there. I was able to purchase some much needed film for my R4s and replenish my desire to return, hopefully sooner than the last time.

We made our way towards London, our last stop on the trip, but not before we made a very special stop at the stones of Avebury.

Practically from the moment we landed in Manchester more than a week prior our students had been asking about stones. The guide had said that Stonehenge was not on the route we were taking but there were possibilities. We didn't make some more northern stones near Hadrian's Wall, but these were far older.

Solitary standing stone in a grassy field under bright summer clouds.

Of the many sights and activities this one may have been the most alarmingly beautiful to me. I am a lover of nature and animals. I grew up camping in the Everglades and all around the United States with my parents and my hippie ideals have made me swear off meat for almost a decade. So I can't say I was surprised with how I reacted to communing with nature in this way. But what was surprising was the way I responded to the mystical.

I'm not much of a believer in anything. I believe in living in the moment. But I was feeling rather distanced from my family and was seeking connection and found it in these stones, this land, these cows. It all felt like communion to me. I did something uncharacteristic of myself and went to the small stone seller up the road in town and bought stones for myself, Steph, and the kids. It somehow made me feel more connected with them and gave me some renewed energy for the last three days of this trip in swingin' London.

To be concluded in Adventure in England, Part IV.