Haworth was worth it
Our first foray into Yorkshire was Haworth, the city where the Bronte sisters spent most of their lives. The closest thing to a town square that it had to offer was fantastic. St. Michael's, the church found there, was ancient and awesome. It is here that the Bronte sisters, and much of their family, are buried. Outside there was a vinyl record shop that unfortunately was closed (who had me pegged as a vinyl guy...I'm sure you can see me coming a mile away), but Mrs. Beighton's Sweet Shop was open, score! It reminded me very much of the sweet shop from Willy Wonka. Then again, I think most old British sweet shops will remind me of Willy Wonka.
We did not spend too much time here, but had some rather fantastic tea made by an Englishman who was smitten by my two-Leica set up. We talked about photography for a while, and he reminisced about his time in Miami some years ago before we were off.
Old York
We got into York early, still morning, and had the entire day to explore. We toured York Minster and Clifford's Tower before having time to explore on our own. This was my first time in York, and I wanted to explore the Shambles. So it was there that I set off towards first.
The moment I stepped onto its crooked streets I felt right at home. I had never been anywhere like this before. Even the oldest American cities seem new compared to this. York felt otherworldly, magical even. I was thinking about how magical this place was when this rather dapper looking gentleman stepped into the light that was shining through the clouds up above. It was some of the most fortuitous timing I've had as a street photographer. And I think he knew what was happening because he stopped the moment the light hit him and looked off into the distance, pausing just long enough for me to make the exposure. I thanked him and was on my way.
I subscribe to the belief that photography, much like anything else, requires a warm-up period. Your first exposure is usually not as strong as your next. But in York, this was not the case. The moment I started photographing I was making photographs I was proud of. In fact, I think these are my favorites from the entire ten-day trip. No matter where I pointed my camera, there were amazing stories unfolding.
This one, of three women flower shopping, is a perfect example. I popped out from this alley and there they were! They were not posing, but naturally held this gesture, the mother clearly taken by the beautiful flowers and the daughters expressionless. It was such a beautiful scene, but mundane. However, the mundane, captured in the right setting and light will create a beautiful photograph and I think York yielded that for me in spades. Of all the new cities I visited, York is the one I most want to get back to and soon.
Stratford, parting is such sweet sorrow...
Stratford was the first stop on this trip that I had visited years prior. My first visit had left an impression on me. I am, after all, a teacher of literature and composition. Beyond its ties to Shakespeare, however, Stratford Upon Avon is a city that is, to put it simply, beautiful. No matter where in this antiquated city one looks there is beauty.
We started out by visiting the Anne Hathaway house, where she and William Shakespeare lived upon tying the knot. The apples from the orchard on the property are quite delicious, for those that are curious. I did not ask if I could pick one as it is far easier to ask for forgiveness than permission.
This spot with the bench was one that I visited twice. The first time it was empty, but I made a photograph there regardless. But as we were leaving, I thought, "let me have another look." I beheld an older couple sitting and enjoying the serenity. This gave me my favorite exposure of Stratford.
Stratford, much like how I remembered it from my previous visit two decades before, was teeming with life. The streets were filled with people coming and going. Some were obviously tourists while others were locals enjoying some of the warmest weather they'd had in years. The day was, indeed, beautiful. I had a sandwich of salmon and cheese on baguette at a small sandwich shop just down the intersecting street from Shakespeare's home. The tea, was of course, spectacular.
While I felt like the street photography opportunities were better at York, I still had an opportunity to capture some nice moments here. Like this one of the boys in their school uniform. It was midafternoon and I assume they were in some sort of summer session at school. It reminded me of the kinds of photos of English kids that were common in the 60's and 70's, except with more cellphones.
As the day went on, I found myself venturing further out from the old town and towards the Avon river. This is where I found some of the best photo spots in the city. It was packed with people picnicking, walking, and playing. In a lot of ways, I assume this is how summer days have been spent at Stratford since the time of the Bard. I imagined him and Anne Hathaway promenading through the riverwalk, sweet nothings being whispered back and forth.
I found myself missing my family then. Yes, I had missed them the entire time apart, but as Steph was an actress in many plays when she was younger and Link a fan of history and art, this is exactly the sort of city they both would have loved. Wes is still at an age in which he simply enjoys anything or nothing at all, but I'm sure he would have loved feeding the ducks on the Avon. I was sad not to have them with me. Particularly as the next day would be my 37th birthday and I'd be celebrating without them.
Regardless of that, I enjoyed the rest of my day in Stratford. It may not have given me the photographic opportunities that York did, but it was great to reminisce about the time I spent here with my grandparents so many years ago, and likewise create some new unforgettable memories. Tomorrow would be my birthday and I'd be spending it in Oxford, a new city for me!
To be continued in Adventure in England Part III.
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